The band is playing "Smoke on the water", badly. I don’t care I am
jumping up and down like an idiot and laughing. The sound echoes of the stones
walls of the houses around the cobbled square, I notice Phil appear from the
brightly lit bar in the corner carrying another round of ridiculously over
sized and under priced gin-y-tonica’s. This is another fiesta in another
mountain village in the Spanish Pyrenees where we are celebrating the life of some obscure
saint by dancing to bad cover versions of 70’s rock music. As always we are
having a blast. We have been around the region long enough that some of the locals
recognise us and smile when we show up. This is the summer of 1986 and we are
working in the area making geological maps. This is in a time before fast, EU
funded motorways will bring these rural communities within 3 hours of
Barcelona, making them perfect for holiday homes, superficially tidying them up
but ripping away a thousand years of tradition and spirit. For the time being, these villages
are truly rural, water and electric are not ubiquitous, people work the land
with their hands and there is a real sense of community. The annual fiesta is a big event in the village. For three days everyone parties, the very old dance with the very young, obscure games are played and the people celebrate being a community it which everyone knows and respects each other. That makes our
welcome even more of a privilege that we appreciate.
For the last six weeks we have been hanging out with the local police.
Four young guys, at least two of whom, Martin and Carey, signed up to avoid conscription in to the army.
They are our age and always up for a party. Their jobs mean that they have an encyclopedic
knowledge of all the villages and towns within a 100 km radius, including, most
importantly where and when the fiestas are happening. So every evening we sit in the
local bar, exhausted from a long day and they appear
"Hola, que tal?" (Hi, how are you doing?)
"Bien, que pasa?" (Good, whats happening?)
“Fiesta esta noche
en Bialo?” (Fiesta tonight in Bialo?)
Where the fuck is Bailo – “Donde Bailo?”
Not that it really matters because we will cram four or five people
into a Fiat 126 bubble car and go anyway and we will pretend we want to come home at
2am and then crawl back into our tents at 5 or 6, only to be woken by a baking
sun at 9; get up and then go to work, because we have a ridiculous protestant work ethic. And then
the next evening the process will start all over again.
Only tonight, in Bailo there is a minor annoyance. A small mean-looking
guy, about 50, who is very drunk keeps barging into Carey, from time to time punching
and pushing him. Carey is a small, hyperactive and utterly lovable guy. Totally
unsuited to being a policeman. Nobody should ever be mean to Carey. I have no idea who this guy is but he is really starting
to piss me off and I am probably a bit too drunk to ask why Carey is not trying
to stop this really obnoxious behaviour. I try to ignore it as well and go back
to dancing.
A short while later the guy reappears and grabs Carey around the neck in an arm lock and starts to drag him around the square.He seems to thing this is funny but nobody else does. I have had enough, so I
step forward and grab him by the throat. He looks extremely surprised and
releases my friend immediately. I am a lot bigger than him and its fairly easy
to pick him up by the scruff of the neck and toss him backwards
“vete a la mierda, maricon!”
He stumbles and falls on his arse, I turn to Carey to ask him if he is
ok and he looks genuinely terrified. That is my firsy incline that maybe that was not such a good thing to
do.
The mean guy is straight back, purple with rage and screaming at me. I
stand my ground.
I realise that things are probably not so great when the bands stops
playing and people gather around. The arsehole takes a swing and I step back
and avoid it, he flails wildly and almost ends on his arse again. I look around
and there are a lot of people just watching us and I wander what the hell is
going on. The entire atmosphere has changed and I am sobering up very quickly. I
try to reason with the guy…
Los siento pero Carey es me amigo y…
(I am sorry but Carey is my friend and..)
He is too angry to listen and just screams in my face
Carey is talking to him in very fast Spanish, I can only follow about
half of it, but the gist is "he is English he doesn’t understand…"
This annoys me, I do understand. I understand that is guy is a cunt and
he is rapidly heading for a my fist in his ugly fuckin face. I am starting to
get very angry and figure the quickest way to end this is to lamp the bastard very
hard and be done with it.
Carey skilfully maneuverers himself between the two of us and keeps
talking, everyone else looks on and there is a real air of fear and menace. How
did it change so fast and why do so many people care if two drunk people swing hand bags?
Then almost as quickly as things flared up, they dissipate. The angry
man steps back, points to me and says something that I take to be a warning to watch
my back and he stomps off out of the square. Before there is time for anything else
to kick off the band start up again and people go back to dancing.
Carey takes me by the arm and leads me into the bar at the side of the
square. There he hands me a drink and in a very over excited and clearly freaked
out way explains that Snr Angry is the local police chief and a real nasty
bastard. A hang up from the Franco era who has never had anyone stand up to him
since he was the school bully, 40 years earlier. He is genuinely concerned for
my well being and things start to fall in to place but I am still drunk enough to
be brave so I shrug my shoulders and in my poor Spanish I try to explain to Carey that he is my friend and friends don't let friends get pushed around, but he is too worried to take it in, so I down my beer and we go back to dancing.
Nothing happens that night, although I stop drinking and like the man suggested, I watch my back.
The next day, news of the nights events has spread rapidly. My friends
who own the local bar next to our unofficial campsite think this is the greatest thing they have ever heard. It seems that Angry man is well known and not very popular in the region. At subsequent
fiestas, people I do not know pat me on the back and buy my drinks. I never see the guy again
but I am never fully relaxed and my new found fame sits uncomfortably, its only
a couple of weeks until I leave but all I wanted to do was drink and dance
badly until the small hours.